Saturday, September 23, 2017

Down Under Visits the North Country, Part 4

Stephanie McCarthy, Australian writer and observer of human nature and our cultures continues her observations of Canada, a trip she and her husband made this summer for her son's wedding. - GNH

Tipping, Ice Fields, Downpours and Dogs on Airplanes....by Stephanie McCarthy

We felt awkward, uncomfortable and annoyed at the pressure upon us to tip. Australians think this way – if you’ve received exceptional service from someone in the hospitality industry, you will tip that person because you really want to, and the recipient won’t necessarily be expecting it, because they earn a fair day’s pay for a fair day’s work. 

Steph on the Columbian Ice Fields

Result? Good feeling. BUT, everywhere in Canada we bought food or drink, even in a line up canteen with a checkout at the end (i.e. no service at all) the pressure was in the bill to tip. 

Result? Bad feeling. I believe that in Canada the hospitality staff are paid pretty well, unlike America where (quite wrongly) the waiters are forced to depend on their tips. This doesn’t mean it is right. It means the Canadian system has slavishly and conveniently followed American custom, and the American system is totally broken, and the employers in the hospitality industry not paying fair wages are making bucketloads of money. 

One Canadian told me that her waitress daughter had been fired from one restaurant because she had dared to question where the tipping $$ had ended up. And so whenever we did feel like tipping, which happened quite often due to the friendliness of most Canadian waiters, we always tried to hand the cash over personally. The ‘friendliness’ I mention was sometimes way over the top, almost a practiced performance in some cases, but when we felt we were being served by a genuinely helpful person, it was a pleasure to tip.

We loved walking the gorges and were overawed by the sheer mass of water rushing through a narrow chasm. We loved walking on the Columbian Ice-fields but didn’t love what we heard about the rate the glacier was receding every year. Hard not to be angry at the climate change deniers, one of whom is our PM, Turncoat Turnbull who seems to be happy to forget all his former ideals about the environment, and is giving in to the Nationals, who have some similarities with the US Republicans.


Steph, her son and new daughter in law, the one who informed her about tipping customs in the North Country.


We drove down to Cochrane, Alberta in the biggest rain and lightning storm we’ve ever experienced. Looking up through the glass roof made me feel as if I were underwater. My Daughter in Law, a farm girl who had regularly driven mammoth machinery in all kinds of weathers, was scornful of all those drivers who had stopped on the verge, and so we pushed on through the sleet until we reached quieter climes on the other side of the Rockies.

Cochrane is not a tourist town, and we really enjoyed our full day there – many classy and unusual shops, and with a serene ambience. My son, a master musician and maker of marimbas and vibraphones, fell in love with a mandolin finished only hours before by a man in a tea shop, the instrument fashioned from an authentic Nicaraguan cigar box. So while I was looking over an array of tea pots, Jim was testing the instrument and listening earnestly to its maker. This may give an idea of the surprises in store at Cochrane.



Maurice and I said our goodbyes to the kids who drove back to Saskatoon while we flew from Calgary, city of stampeding cowboys, to Kitchener. At the Calgary airport we discovered a lady with strange contents in her carry-on luggage – a small shaggy dog in a bespoke ‘tent’ small enough to fit under the seat in front of her. Dogs with their owners on planes, in this particular case Westjet! 

We had never heard of such a practice before. We asked ourselves ‘What if the dog went crazy and began yapping? What if the owner took pity on her pet and took him out for a cuddle and he escaped down the aisle? What if he needed to pee or worse?’ This is all still a mystery to us, so if anyone would like to explain it? However, I was very pleased for the dogs themselves, because it must be very frightening for animals in the baggage department.

Next week, Steph and Maurice arrive in Ontario!


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